I aim to explore the surfing culture of Santa Cruz, Pacifica, and San Francisco’s Sunset District in the hope of revealing the motives, thoughts, and history behind this unique lifestyle. I will explore the psychological role of perception to reveal how surfers view themselves and the way they live. I will photograph and interview surfers on the streets, on the beaches, and in the water to delve deeper into the mind of this lifestyle. By putting a face and a name to the culture I will be able to display just how important surfing is to people and in turn just how important it is to protect our planet so that people can keep enjoying its natural beauties. I will explore the environmental issues surrounding the water quality and sand quality of the beaches that I study to find out how surfers and environmentalists are protecting the waters that are obviously so integral to their lives. I will compose a final coffee table-like book that explores the rich beauty of surfing and what it means to these areas and the people that live there. I plan to publish my book and distribute it in surf shops throughout Northern California. The money I earn from my published work will be donated to the Surfrider Foundation in an attempt to help protect the waters that are so important to this beautiful culture.
“Surfing is peaceful. It doesn’t matter if its 1ft or 10ft, it’s always fun for me.”
“Surfing is a chance to release all the stress of the real world”
“Surfing is this perfect escape from everything and anything.”
“We surf because it puts us in the moment out on the waves”
“Surfing is a way for me to not only get in touch with the earth but also myself. The time I spend in the water just sitting on my board allows me to reflect on my spirituality because of the beauty that surrounds me. I appreciate mother earth more and more each time I step into the water.”
“Surfing is my connection to the sea. Living in Colorado, I surf as much as possible when we visit family in California. Its also how I met my wife.”
“Escape from daily life and a reminder that there are things larger than me.”
“I find surfing releasing and something to do in my spare time.”
“I enjoy surfing because it lets me get away from boring stuff in life (school, work, etc). I get to spend time with my friends in a fun atmosphere.”
“Surfing connects nature and man.”
“I surf to enjoy the beauty and escape of the ocean environment.”
“Surfing to me has always been more about the experience than the actual ride. There’s nothing better than a warm sunny day, out in the water with my friends, just enjoying life. If one day I can actually stand up wave after wave, then great, but for now this is just as good as it gets.”
“Surfing makes me feel connected with my environment and other people. I love sharing the experience with my friends. Connecting with others while connecting with nature is priceless!”
“Surfing is life. Surfing is freedom. Surfing is the ability to get back to the ocean where we all came from. For me personally, it is a time to relax and enjoy the beauty of life. The beauty of our surroundings. The beauty of our ocean. Not to mention: it’s fun too!” –Bobby Hanson: Surfer, Musician, Santa Cruz Local”
“Surfing to me is a way to get away from the dull things in life, like work and chores. It connects me to the ocean and makes me more in touch with nature and my soul. Plus it is the most fun and challenging activity for me. I love it! –Melissa Jenking”
“Surfing is about forgetting worries and stress and putting a big fat smile on your face! It’s about having fun and getting wet and I bloody love it. –Victoria Galitzine”
“…Surfing to me is, the constant in my life, simple pure energy, in a word, fun. The one thing I love to share with my family and friends. –Eugene Grant”
“I surf because my mom always swam in the ocean at Cowell’s while she was pregnant with me.”
“Surfing to me is getting barrels.”
“As a trayboarder it’s more about the wave than the ride. By using a tray I eliminate the border between myself and the ocean. Yeah!”
“Surfing makes me feel small, makes me humble, reminds me of the awesome power of nature and the feeling of being totally alive.”
Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »
“I grew up in Southern California. Going to the beach was a daily thing. I have always loved the ocean. I am a Huntington Beach Lifeguard. There is complete polar opposite from Southern Cal and Northern Cal surfing, from 52 degree water to the open ocean ground swells. Definitely a commitment.”
“I moved from San Diego to San Francisco for school and to surf good cold waves. The Sunset District is the place to be if you love the city and love to surf.”
“Surfing is a nice way to be outside.”
“The less I try the more I smile.”
“Perpetually addictive, humiliating, relaxing, stressful and rewarding? Changing; new enough yet familiar. -Alberto Cuadros”
“Surfing keeps me sane, sober somewhat, and alive.”
“Surfing to me means balance with nature and life in general.”
“What surfing means to me by ANSGAR LORENZ
Surfing is my way of unwinding; connecting with nature to feel like a part of this world rather than just a passer-by. It cures all woes and keeps your perspective normalized. It allows me to work thru my problems, and has been the source or cause of more than one epiphany. Surfing, in its distilled essence, keeps me sane.”
“Cause when you’re out there it’s the only thing you can think of doing.”
“Connecting with the earth
Enjoying each day
Being with Friends
Holding Hands.”
“Something to make me feel my place in the world at Dawn.”
“Why: exercise, PEACE of mind, excitement.
How defines: care about the ocean, it’s an extension of my view on the environment. Been surfing for 30 years.”
“Surfing is a release. I surf to relax, to reflect, to enjoy being in the ocean and around nature. I grew up on the water and am more happy when I’m around it. Surfing makes me a better person simply because it lets me exhale and disconnect. Surfing at its worst for me, like today, is fantastic exercise, happiness, and an occasional seal popping its head up to say hello.”
“Surfing is freedom for me. It allows me to be myself and reflect on things. It washes all the things I no longer want away and allows me to begin anew. –Josh”
“Surfing gives me a purpose; it’s the only reason I get out of bed in the morning and if I wasn’t a surfer, I don’t know who I’d be (and probably don’t want to know).”
“I surf for fun. It’s an infinite challenge. It gives me some alone time living in the city. I love being outdoors, in the ocean under the sun. If I’ve had a good session I’ve had a good day.”
Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »
“Dan Moreno, Sonlight Surfshop I’ve been surfing for over 40 years, since the late 1960′s. I still love it and super stoked on putting the wetsuit on, running to the beach, paddling out, and catching waves as if I were that grom so many years ago. You can say it defines much of who I am. So much that I opened my own surfshop in 1985. Sharing the stoke of surfing to all is one of my mission statements. Surfing is for everyone who desires to experience the most incredible sport ever created.”
“I surf because I love it. What else is there in this world that can take you away from all your worries, stress, troubles, domestic disputes or what’s really troubling your inner peace. You can be so angry you want to smash someone in the face and go get a good surf session in and not even remember why you were angry. It takes me away from everything. There is a feeling of, well it’s hard to explain. Kinda like being high but naturally, the aspect of stepping off land and into a moving environment and riding something that started in Japan or Hawaii. The feeling of making a drop and bottom turn and watching the wave form in front of you and feeling the energy move you is unexplainable. I love it. Everyone that has the ability and means and access to surf should thank God for that and creating the earth and ocean for humans to enjoy. Think about it, what do people do in Iowa! I feel privileged and blessed to surf.”
“Surfing is a way to be a part of nature – no barriers – at peace. It’s also crazy hard at times – The Challenge.”
“It’s just good to get out in the water”
“The Ocean is my Temple
Surfing is my Prayer”
-Sayulita Storm
“Health, camaraderie, friends, excitement, sun, fun, connecting with the pulse of the planet.”
“Because I can’t really do much else very well.”
“I surfed some as a teenager but took a long break. I took it up again in my 30′s with someone I met in a drug recovery group. Surfing gives me a natural rush and is good exercise. The social aspects are a plus too. It’s great when I see a few of my friends catch a great wave. Watching them ride is almost as fun as having a wave for myself.”
“I am a middled age lady on a long board…
“Surfing is my life…It makes me feel alive, happy and stoked 
‘Aim for the light’”
“Surfing means almost everything to me. God, family are first the, surfing. I stopped surfing for almost 4 months and I regret all four. I broke my leg then but now I’m back and so happy again to be surfing.”
“I have been surfing for about 20 years. It is more than a sport, but a lifestyle, spiritual physical, etc. -Aloha”
“Surfing is the ultimate balance to the hellish 9-5 working life. I just wish I could surf 5 days a week and work only 2, rather than the other way around. -Chris Becherer, Pedro Point”
“Surfing is the cure. The cure for a hangover. I surf to take a break from trivial life stuff, to get some exercise and clear my head.”
“I surf to live. Without surfing there is no life. It is who I am.”
“It’s just an addiction. Pure and simple. I can’t stop.”
“When my 10 year old son wanted to start boogie boarding, I wouldn’t let him go alone. So, I got a boogie board and wet suit and joined him. Then my husband started surfing again (since childhood). My son took surfing lessons and got a board too. So, I got a board, because I wouldn’t let him go out alone!! (over protective??). My husband and son gave me lessons and now eight years later we all surf. We go on Surf Safaris to So-Cal and Hawaii every chance we can. We belong to Pedro Pt. Surf Club in Linda Mar. Surfing is bonding, peaceful, and a great workout (lost a lot of weight!!). We were bitten by the bug and now can’t stop!”
Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a Comment »
